Ok the design works on the principle of a hamster cage effect. Have you ever seen a hamster exercise in the wheel in his cage? As he tries to run up the wheel he goes nowhere, but the wheel goes around and around. If you take 2 rather large cylinder magnets and turn them so they oppose each other, one will roll away from the other. You can actually make the magnet go uphill with the other magnet without touching the second one. Keep in mind that the magnet is not trying to turn to escape the other magnet, it is only getting away from the other magnet by rotating because it is round Can we use this energy of the magnet rolling away from the other as work? I did it twice.
Ok the design works on the principle of a hamster cage effect.
Have you ever seen a hamster exercise in the wheel in his cage? As he tries to run up the wheel he goes nowhere, but the wheel goes around and around.
If you take 2 rather large cylinder magnets and turn them so they oppose each other, one will roll away from the other.
You can actually make the magnet go uphill with the other magnet without touching the second one.
Keep in mind that the magnet is not trying to turn to escape the other magnet, it is only getting away from the other magnet by rotating because it is round
Can we use this energy of the magnet rolling away from the other as work?
I did it twice.
The rpm on mine was slow maybe 50 rpm. It turned about 16 turns before the top magnet hung up on the side plate. I have not been able to get it to work that long since.
The design is quite simple, but much patience is needed in the building and adjustment of the magnets for the motor to work properly.
As I said, adjustment of the magnets must be precise. Maybe one of you Engineers out there can perfect this design.
This motor consists of (4) 1x3 and 3/8 inch Alnico cylinder magnets.
Also (2) 1"id x 2"od stainless steel bearings.
The cage is made of schedule 40, 10" id PVC pipe cut to 3 and 1/2 inches wide. The side plates are 1/8 inch plexiglass cut in a circle 11" across. The shaft is all thread 7/16 cut at a length of 10 inches.
The bearings for the shaft and plates are 1/2 id x 1 and 1/16 od inches, standard bearings.
A cradle must be made to hold (1) "chaser" magnet inside the wheel.
This cradle must be attached to the shaft to oppose the "running" magnet.
The reason for such large magnets are that each one has enough weight to keep from "flipping" when they are in the opposed position.
Plus the weight to wheel ratio on the motor is a serious consideration.
When the "chaser" magnet is in position in its cradle from the shaft,
the "running" magnet is opposed. It tries to go up the wheel away from the "chaser" magnet.
But this does not make the wheel turn, if fact the force on the "running" magnet is held against the wheel. It cannot turn.
We have to back off of the "chaser" magnet to give the bearings on the "running" magnet a chance to roll backwards, but the force of the "chaser" magnet is there, but not as strong.
When we put the same application on top of the wheel on the outside of it, we offset the balance of the magnets repulsion causing the wheel to turn, because the weight of the magnet offsets the centre "running" magnets repulsion from the "chaser" magnet.
The top "running" magnet starts to roll backwards causing the centre "running" magnet to roll forward causing the wheel to turn.
Be warned...the wheel must be in perfect balance, plus all these adjustments are critical.
It is not as easy as it seems! It takes much patience to get the adjustments correct to start the wheel turning.
The plates will extend beyond the edge of the pipe, this is what it must do. We are building a hamster cage for the magnets.
Mount bearings in the centre of each plate and attach them to each side of the pvc pipe using brass screws. I used all thread material for the shaft.
Let me say here that it is of the most importance that the wheel be in perfect balance. I used pennies taped to the side of the wheel to obtain this.
Now, build a bracket to hold one of the magnets inside the wheel attached to the shaft. I call this the "chaser" magnet. The chaser magnet must not contact the wheel anywhere.
Make your shaft a little long so as to adjust the chaser magnet from outside the wheel. I built mine out of aluminium carpet strips. It also helps to cut a 2" hole in each plate to access the magnets.
When the wheel it built, build a stand to hold the wheel supported by the shaft on each side. Purchase (2) stainless steel bearings1" id by 2" od.
Place one on each end of the "running" magnet. Be careful of your choice of bearings, some stainless steel bearings are attracted to magnets depending on the material they are made of. I suppose brass bearings would work if they can be found.
Place this "running" magnet inside the wheel through the 2" access holes in the plates in front of the chaser magnet.
If you have your chaser magnet and bracket built right, you should be able to move the running magnet back and forth by turning the shaft by hand outside the wheel.
Now, back the chaser magnet up away from the running magnet until the wheel starts to move in the opposite direction.
Keep it in this position for now. Take the other 2 magnets and place them on top of the wheel opposing one another. Note: these are a chasing and running magnets also.
Using the chasing magnet towards the bottom of the wheel gradually come down the side of the wheel holding the running magnet suspended against the wheel.
This is why the plate sides overhang the wheel to keep the magnets in line and to stay on the wheel.
Note: these magnets do not have bearings on them. I did wrap the running magnet with one turn of electrical tape to give it "traction" so to speak against the wheel.
When the wheel starts to turn, stop and build a adjustable bracket to hold the chaser magnet in this position. This is, as should be a "hands off" motor.
Build brackets and a adjustable stop for the shaft also.
Go back to the shaft and bring down the chaser magnet slowly and the wheel will turn if the adjustments are made correctly.
Adjustment of the bracket holding the magnet inside the wheel should be made adjustable.
All these adjustments are critical and takes much patience to do. But if you get them right, you will be humbled to watch it work.
I think if tracks could be made in the wheel hub, inside and out, that the magnets would stay in line more.
Perhaps the wheel could be made of a better material, such as aluminium. The magnets still have a tendency to "cock" without tracking.
Balance could be much better with a aluminium wheel. The distance between the shaft and the cradle to the wheel is critical.
The "chaser" magnet seems to have to have more down force on the "running" magnet as well as a repulsive force up the wheel.
But the repulsive force seems not as critical. I wish someone would consider replicating this design.
If this motor has a previous patent, I'm not aware of it. I give the design away as shareware.
Use it as you wish, but remember who offered this design! Send all huge donations to me personally.